The resolution advantage of the 5D Mark III is obvious, even at lower settings. For instance, the 11MP setting of the 5D Mark III has way more detail than any of the 12MP (native) Nikon cameras. If you're testing lenses, sure, shoot at L, but for everything else, try the settings for yourself, You'll probably get what you need at the smaller settings. M looks almost as good as L for the same reason. The S (5MP) setting of the 5D Mark III is a lot sharper than any 5MP camera. What this means is that the lower resolution settings actually pack away lot more detail than you think. If Sigma was selling this, they'd sell the 5MP (S) setting as if it were 15MP (also a lie). No digital camera really resolves its rated resolution they cheat and interpolate up, so at 100% at its rated resolution, no digital camera image is as sharp as a true scan from film.Īt the 5MP setting, you have 100% R, G and B pixels, exactly as if you were using a Sigma Foveon sensor. Why? Because they use less, or no, Bayer interpolation. When you start with over 20MP, it looks pretty good if you use all those to make 11MP or 5MP. They are much, much sharper and cleaner than images from cameras on which that is their native resolution. The smaller-sized images out of the 5D Mark III are spectacular. Even SMALL is good enough for great 20x30" prints. When I'm photographing family and friends, I shoot at SMALL JPG. If you look at your images at 100%, you'll see that the lower resolution shots are sharper pixel-by-pixel! Try shooting your 5D Mark III at its M (11MP) or S (5MP) settings. All it does is slow everything and clog your hard drive. Try it yourself: I've never seen any difference between NORMAL and FINE, and I do notice the smaller file sizes which transfer faster and take up much less space in my computer. I shoot at LARGE JPG, and set it to NORMAL (the stair-step icon) instead of the LARGE (quarter-circle icon as shown below).Ĭanon defaults to the FINE (quarter circle icon) setting, so I always set the NORMAL options deliberately. A and B are Amber and Blue, while M and G are Magenta and Green. bigger.Īs you set this, you'll see a colored chart. Maui Bathroom: Mixed CFL and halogen lighting, 2,500K A5 M5 WB. I tried a few other settings, and quickly settled on A5 (amber) and M5 (magenta) WB SHIFT, easily tweaked by looking at the LCD as I changed settings for each shot. I then made another shot at 2,500K WB, which wasn't orange any more, but now it was way too green! This setting applies to every white balance position, even AUTO and Kelvin.įor instance, here's a shot at my default WB setting of AUTO with A5 trim, as I use for most subjects: > WB SHIFT/BKT > SET > move the dot as you like with the thumb button > SET.It's easy to set precise green-magenta or amber-blue color adjustments.
White Balance Trims (Color Adjustments) top The 5D Mark III locks the exposure by default as you half-press the shutter. No big deal look at your LCD and use what looks best. With highlight optimization ON, I find 0.0 compensation usually gives me the best results under most conditions. My 5D Mark III usually gives the best results without any exposure compensation.Ĭolorful subjects in interesting light at +3 saturation can overload colorful highlights, so under these conditions with highlight optimization ("Highlight Tone Priority) OFF, I'll often set -0.7 compensation. I don't use highlight recovery (Highlight Tone Priority), since it deactivates the shadow optimizer above. I always leave the shadow optimizer (Automatic Lighting Optimizer) ON, which is its default.
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THe AUTO ISO settings are so important that I use different ones for each kind of shooting I do. I wish I could program this to be smarter, but it's fixed at ISO 400 regardless of ambient light. That's the setting next to L, one or two down from ISO 100.Īuto ISO always sets ISO 400 with flash. I usually shoot in Auto White Balance (AWB), but trim the colors to add 5 steps of amber (A5). PORTAIT at +1 saturation is also nice, use what looks great to you.įor everything else, I usually set +3 for saturation. I put this menu option in the MY MENU menu for easy access.įor people, I shoot in the STANDARD Picture Style setting (you get there by hitting the top left "*" button), and change only the saturation to +2. Shooting in direct sunlight, "5" is ultra-bright, but it will blind you indoors. This sounds nice, but if it drives you crazy, you can set it to one fixed value by pressing: By default, the 5D Mark III varies its LCD brightness automatically.